More Toitles!

On Monday we took the same bus back to Sandakan that we had taken down, and just like before, it broke down. The cabin once more filled with steam from the radiator, and we pulled over to hose down the bus. I think they have it factored into the time table at this point.

The next morning we headed for the protected Turtle nesting grounds off the coast. The island serves as a hatchery for both Green Turtles and Hawksbills, so there are turtles crawling onto the beaches year round. Luckily for them, there is a curfew on tourists being allowed onto the beaches after sun down.

We sat in the office for a few hours that night until the Ranger spotted a nesting mother, and then went out to watch as the eggs were collected and deposited in the hatchery. Then back to the beach to let loose that night's hatchlings.

We got up at 5 next morning to watch the sunrise over the Ocean, and found two Green turtles blocking our path. Keeping a respectful distance, made a wide arc around them, and watched as they dragged themselves back to the more comfortable seas.

It was back to Kota Kinablu then to do sweet f-all, and relax. That was the plan, but instead we trekked through the rainforest on the island some shite show called Survivor was filmed on, and had a bath in the mud volcanoe. That was actualy quite nice. Not as warm as you'd think though. Erin's flight back to Tokyo was at midnight on Sunday, so left the island early that morning and spent the day in Kota Kinabalu stocking up on bras, as they had a good brand on sale there, and the ones in Japan are shit quality, apparently.

Click here for some photos of the hatchlings, amongst other things.

Mt. Kinabalu

I arrived in Sabah from Osaka on Friday afternoon, and met Erin who had arrived the day before. We had a nice look around the capital, Kota Kinabalu, and a nearby island, but were there for somethign else. We wanted to take on Mt. Kinabalu. Fuji was 3775m, and this was 4095m, so no worries. Well, maybe one. We didn't have accomadation booked at the final way point, and staying there is mandatory. Climbers rest for a few hours, and then tackle the summit that night to arrive just before sunrise.

We spent a day looking around the park at the base, which was had a really nice Botanical garden, and got permission from the ranger to climb to the final way point with the condition that if there was not even floor space for us, we would come back down. We agreed, and off we went with our guide (mandatory), a cheery local young man who much preferred getting paid to chat with us while exercising than working in a factory in Singapore.

On the way up, we were passed by a japanese woman in trainign for the race taking place the next week. She passed us again on her way back down before we had even made the station. The porters also put us to shame, carrying what looked like appliances on their backs!

We arrived at the final way point, but no joy. Even all of the floor space had been taken up, so it looked like we would have to go back down without reaching the summit.

Off we went, thiundering up the mountain, before our lungs reminded us that the air was a good bit thinner...

The dealine came and went, our guide was waiting behind, so onward and upward with two random Malay guys who trying the same thing. We got to the top and had the tiny summit all to ourselves. I took out my flute to celebrate by playing "Mary had a little lamb", but it was not to be. No matter how hard I blew, I couldn't get enough air through the flute to make the tiniest of sounds.

All the practice for nought. Should have taken up the violin...

With the sun swiftly setting, we raced down the mountain, getting past the second ranger station before dark. Out came the headlamps, and on came the sore knees. Our legs were in bits for the whole of the next week!

Click here to see more photos.

How they live in To-ki-yo

The 20th of July was my last proper day of work, giving me nearly two weeks before I headed off of Malaysia. What to do? Time to see those sites in Tokyo I kept missing. Before that was Shirahama for Pete's final House Party before heading home to NY. Three years of living in a massive house near Shirahama Beach had made it the ideal location, and now that chapter was coming to a close.

The next day I headed to the beach again to go underwater. It had been almost a year since I had dived, and I needed to get back in the water to refresh my memory before starting any advanced courses. Nothing much to see, bad conditions, but I felt a lot more confident about the coming trip.

Onward to Tokyo for some sightseeing with Erin. And to pick up a supply of crazy Malaria pills for the next few months: The Head of the International Clinic was a brilliant octogenarian Russian who entertained me tales of patients gone by, mostly musicians passing through the Hotels, and thought more of his photo of himself and Michael Jackson than he did of the one with Jacques Chirac.

The Tsukiji fish market is massive, serves the Tokyo area, and is best seen in all is chaotic glory just after the sun rise. We chanced our arm on New Years Day, and of course it was closed, so this time we sleep in he cheapest option in Tokyo (A very comfortable "love hotel"{charges by the hour}) and made our bleary-eyed way there.

It wasn't as crazy as I had hoped, but by Japanese standards, it made a good attempt.

I enjoyed wandering through it, seeing the different stages my Maguro goes through before entering my belly.

Then on to the justifiably controversial Yasukini War Shrine.

I'd heard so many terrible tales of how the Shrine blatantly lies about atrocities committed by he Japanese forces in China and elsewhere, I felt I needed to see it for myself before I could really believe it. I was angry. But not near as angry as a Korean may feel. I told the Vice-principal in my main school of my plans the week before. His reply was "Most Japanese don't like that place." Fortunately that seems true. Unfortunately, the Government and Department of Education don't fall into that category.

More from the fish market and Shrine here.

Booked

Just two months left now. My employer has to provide me with a one-way ticket home. They are going to to that, and then I am going to cash it in with their knowledge. They are not concerend, so long as they can point to a flight number in their records and say that they fulfilled their contractual obligations.

My real flight is booked, and that's for Malaysia. And yes, the American lady will be accompanying me there. She'll then be returningto Japan for another year of work at the end of August while I start travelling home slowly. Actually, she was staying with me for a week, all last week. There's loads of hiking and other things to do around here so there was plenty to do if she ever got bored while I was working. And I learned how to play Scrabble.

278 points the first time playing. Apparently that makes me an expert. I won't say what she got except that, clearly, so is she...

Why I re-contracted

It's an exageration, but only just. There were a couple of events and places in Japan that I missed in my first year, and I was determined not to let that happen again! This was one of them.

In all it's glory, The Kawasaki Penis Festival.

A little tired after getting back from Okinawa just the day before, but a bloody good day out.

In the morning, the giant Pink Penis is carried around the neighbourhood before being brought back to the Shrine where music and dancing rule the grounds as everyone eats and drinks under cherry blossoms in full bloom. I sounds fun and beautiful, and it was.

I've been told that some of the pictures might not be considered 'worksafe' a first glance, so Click here for more photos

As always, there's a good story behind the fesival. A young Japanee woman was invaded by a Demon who had the habit of biting off he genitals of her husbands on their wedding nights. No one was very happy with this situation, least of all the prospective bride and future and former husbands, so the town decided that firm action must be taken.

Enter the blacksmith. We can all see where this is going so I'll skip to the end. The demon broke it's teeth, fled the woman, and they all lived happily ever after.

Except for her former husbands that is...

They went on to form Japanese Teen sensation SMAP

Since then? The shrine became an area where ladies of the night would pray for protection from STIs. More recently, those ladies have been replacd by Tokyos LGB scene and couples praying for ferility, making the Festival a fun day out for all the family, with a fine touch of PRIDE.

Island Hopping

The Japanese academic year is a bit different from our own. Schools and Universities finish up the end of the third week of March, and start back the second week of April. It's only two weeks, so you can imagine the envy when I tell them about our 2 or three months off.

I used the Holiday last year to travel further afield, down the length of Japan stopping off with friends along the way. This year Erin and I went a bit further, to the souhern most islands of Okinawa, within spitting distance of Taiwan: Ishigaki, Takejima, an Iriomote

We noticed he vibe as soon as we arrivd. It was sill Japan, but different. A relaxed Japan. The islands had been independent before, with its own Ryuukyuu kingdom, and you could definitely sense that.

I was most impressed with the best use of a beer bottle I have ever seen. Peanuts. I' brilliant!

We flew into Ishigaki island, but stayed there just for the first night to get our bearings. Then it was on to Takejima, a beatiful island of only 300 souls, where we stayed for one night, getting to see the place once all the tourists had left on the last boat. As it was so small, we rented bikes rather than using the local bus sevice... Very effctive at crossing between islands at low tide I hear...

Then Iriomote, the wilderness of Japan, for two nights. Great hostel, and snorkelling that was even better than some dives I've done. Beautiful, with an incredible breath of colours and life, just a few metres from the sand. The colours don't really show up in he photos, so you're just going to have to trust me.

The next day, we took a kayak 8km up river, and hiked to the falls.

It was a beautiful, incredibly relaxing week.

Click here for more photos.

END OF BREAK

The rest of my time in Gunma was mostly spent engaged in my favourite pastimes of eating, sleeping, and watching films. And more sleeping. It reminded me of being back in Dublin those first few days. Bed, bed, and more bed.

And then an expedition at the end to another Ski slope, this one with over a metre of snow.
Everything was alright for the first two hours, it was snowing, so visibility wasn't so great. And then, WHITE.

I lost all sight of everyone else on the mountain, and of, well,everything! The wind was so hard that I wasn't even sure if I was still standing; moving or still. My experiences on a board went from too little snow to a BLOODY BLIZZARD! They had to close the mountain because the ski lifts were going to attempt loops. Before their gymnastics practice could happen though, some people were using themto get DOWN; as it had become more dangerous to ski down.

Anyway, you can see photos of the entire break here.

http://s114.photobucket.com/albums/n267/davidlmorrison/JapanAug2006toJul2007/Christmas2006/

New Year's Sa-ke

New Year's in Tokyo was.... interesting.

A big group of us went to Roppongi, which is infamous for being about as dodgy as Japan can get. Before we had even left the Metro station, we had come across the first of many DUMB AS SHIT Marines. How did you SURVIVE growing up? And then 10 metres from the station, I started hearing voices.

"Hashish-Hashish"

But no bodies to accompany them....

Not even very pale little Japanese boys wearing eyeliner, or little girls crawling out of wells.

"The Grudge" and "The Ring" being documentaries in their original Japanese form.

There was Mexican food (Tokyo having surprisingly few Japanese restaurants. Does Dublin have many “Irish” restaurants?), and dancing, and watching "dancing" and lots of laughing at other people's expense. And a bizarre set up on one floor whereby the men and women had to sit on separate couches, only there was no couch for the men.

Just as it ended, Erin and I left the rest and took a chance. We really wanted to see the fish market in Tokyo at it's busiest time, 5 to 7 a.m. Apparently the sight of Multi-Tonne Tuna being tossed through the air as people argue on price is well worth the lack of sleep. What a way to go, being decapitated by a flying dead Tuna. I'm sure it's happened. So we took the metro there, but, as expected, it was closed for the National Holiday. The restaurants weren't, so we had some of the BEST sashimi (raw fish) EVER. The monster feed was stunningly gorgeous, as was the Knife Master who was preparing it right in front of us.

Maybe he was just stunning.

Desert was provided by a Buddhist Temple we stumbled upon on the return to the station. We joined the crowd for the New Year's ceremony, and were poured a bowl of Sake at the end. It was just after sunrise, but it's very hard to say no to a guy on his 34,567th incarnation who has just blessed the unpleasantly early alcohol for you.

Completely knackered, there was another site I wanted to see.

New Year's is THE big holiday in Japan, and the first visit to a Shrine of the New Year is a grand occasion. We took the Metro to The Meiji Shrine

(First Emperor, and former father figure for the Japanese state, after Imperial rule was restored at the end of the 19th century; Hirohito's grandfather)

the most important Shrine (Shinto, not a Buddhist Temple) in Tokyo to see the first visitors of the New Year. Some wore Kimono, many were with their whole family, and all were deep in thought and prayer for a prosperous coming year.

The police were there just as crowd control at the front of the Shrine where people pray, but had to wear visors to protect them from the offerings being thrown at the Shrine.

A couple of days later, just before the Tokyo stock exchange opened, the Shrine to the god of business was the place to be.

The Emperor's New Birthday.

I took an overnight bus to Tokyo after work that Friday (22nd). Erin and I met the next morning to have a look at the Imperial Palace. The grounds are a massive walled enclosure that take up a big chuck of the centre of Tokyo, and normally the entirety of the grounds are closed to the public. They open twice a year, and one of those times, the Emperors Birthday, was that Saturday. So we arrive at on of the massive gates, and there is security everywhere. No barriers here, just lines and lines of police, sometimes with their arms linked.

Bit like a Céilí really.

X-ray machines, frisks, etc. And then we're allowed to get within 200m of the walls. BIG ASS STONE WALLS. Although they looked fun to climb.


Next comes the "not so secret" service. Towards the entrance gate, the crowd is funneled through a series of barriers, lined with men, and a tiny number of of equally severe looking women, all uniformly dressed in black trench coats, all with the eyes and a look that let you
know that they are taking in EVERYTHING. There's a lot of talk in Japan about security, but that's it, just talk. Their security is a joke, but in this case I think they were working on
the principle that they all knew what the three most wanted people in the country look like: two men and a women accused of involvement in the sarin gas attacks 10 years ago.

Still at large.

And standing right behind you.

Eventually inside the gates, and I realise that the grounds are not, in fact, open. Just a courtyard below a balcony surrounded by suspiciously thick glass... We're handed some crappy paper flags, and some old men start yelling "BANZAI!!!" when the Emperor and his family appear on the Balcony.


He looked like a Teddy Bear! This tiny old man with his sons towering over him (they've stepped backward above), taking in the crowd (old Japanese, and young foreigners, no young Japanese...) and thanking us for our Birthday wishes. Then, as quickly as it started, it was over and we were politely asked to
leave...release the hounds.


Ninja hounds.

So well trained in the arts that I couldn't even see them. But they were there...

I was disappointed. Not at the spectacle, that was all very interesting, but by the lack of crying. I wanted to see old men and women cry. Is that too much to ask?

http://s114.photobucket.com/albums/n267/davidlmorrison/JapanAug2006toJul2007/Christmas2006/

Not memory...

Good morning! (My time)

I can't really remember what happened in November..... not right now anyway......

I've had a stressful day dealing with the inadequacies of Japan's two main travel companies. Who would have thought that trying to book a Hotel at a ski resort that does, in fact, have vacancies would have been such a chore. After 2 hours of waiting while someone did unneccessary research

(No, I don't care what type of hot spring they have, so long as the chemical composition doesn't include sulphuric acid I'm happy. No, you don't have to check.)

At the end, just as I was about to hand over the money, it turned out that they place they had been talking up for so long wasn't even opening until mid-January! I think I managed my most sarcastic "Doomo Arigato" before I left to head home. The highlights of the day, which brought a smile as I took the train though, were the foot long sandwich for lunch and the success in finding armour plated underwear that fits.

The Vice Principal at my base school has organised a staff trip to a ski slope for some fun in the snow. In my case, since I began snowboarding in February and have just three days under my belt, and 8 months in between to forget everything, I expect my......everything?..... to ache like last year. Everything except my ass! Ha! Outsmarted you Gravity!

Another reason to smile is the back up plan for the school Holidays, which is more appealing than any other plan I've had. The original plan was to spend some days on a mountain until around new year, then go to Okinawa for a week of swimming, snorkelling et all. Thanks to
some folk on couchsurfing, and no thanks to travel agents, it doesn't look like we'll be going to Okinawa as it's too cold for the water stuff I like, even there. Also, after today, it doesn't look like we'll have any hotel booked in advance for the week after Christmas.

No panic though. The back up plan is to load my laptop with movies, get on a train to Tokyo and then to Erin's. Hang out there, break into the Emperor's palace, watch some films, rent a car and drive (She'll be driving, I'm navigating, relative strengths) to the slopes whenever we feel like it, eat ice cream when we don't, and have some fun in the snow. Preferably at high speed in a downward direction. She's a pretty damn good skier, and I'm a reckless ass armour clad snow boarder, so fun should be had.

There was another plan that I tinkered with.

Dublin.

Erin has a very romantic notion of Dublin, and I liked the idea of showing her around. Plus, she can drive, so I could show her some other spots as well. Again, me with the navigating, not the driving.

Relative Strengths. Very relative when one doesn't have a licence.

Or ability.

Apart from those epic lessons courtesy of Dad in August. But then again, the Dublin Sligo road is pretty easy now.

The qualification for that idea was price. Japan is expensive, and snow sports and Okinawan trips are more so, so for a while I thought that it might be the same price, or a little more, to fly home and offset the carbon. I was wrong. The flights, even before taxes came in, were well above what I would have been willing to pay. In fact, at about one months wages, well above what I would have been capable of paying.

So staying here.

I'm going to go through some photos to jog the noggin, upload them, and get back to you later.

daveeeeeed

or

day-beee-doooo

Never David theses days......

*sniff*

Since I've been gone

Bonjourno bella bambinos

I haven't yet completely sorted out my apartment. That's probably, I hope, a surprise considering I've been back for nearly two weeks now. It seems like longer, but that's a good thing. Things actually happened.

Heathrow was, as expected, a royal pain in the ass. I intended to stock up on supplies for the coming year in Dublin airport on my way back (read red wine and Bailey's, and those Truffles that only I in my family like) but that wasn't going to happen with only my laptop as carry on. A taped up and bubble wrapped camera lay in my bag after I realised I couldn't fit the laptop in.

The queues seemed to move quick enough though, and I had to laugh at the people who, despite being told repeatedly that they couldn't bring lip balm on board, were still emptying their pockets when they approached the x-ray machines.

The flights were fine, 30 hours in all, despite the lack of sleep that morning. I may have slept on the plane for 3 hours, but mostly I took advantage of the films being on demand. And there was a perfect selection.

It may have been me being half asleep, but I though Mission Impossible was really good! Granted, all I was looking for was slightly better than John Woo's sequel and his bloody fetish for doves flying everywhere. This time Butt-Head himself was the star, and not his hair.

And they had "Stick it!" Gymnastic rebel rocker type thingy. Again, perfect fluff for my head, along with The Matador and whatever else they had. Roman Holiday was the Highlight of the other flights.

Actually, about Stick It.

I was not in a good mood about heading back. The sun was out and Dublin was looking fantastic for the last couple of days. Snakes on a Plane came out, and I had to turn down Larry's invitation to go and see it. Brian and Ciaran would be tackling Carrauntuohill the next weekend, the Bulmer's comedy festival was.....etc. etc.

And I was pissed off about something else, but nothing you lot did.

Yes, more time in Dublin would have been good, so long as it didn't cut into time outside of the city.

I was like that until I saw this film. 2 hours of laughing later and I was looking forward to Japan again and the BBQ that weekend.

Before then, Dan moved in. He would be finishing work on Friday and losing the car and apartment as well, so I stuck him on a futon until the following Tuesday, and listened to how much he would miss Ramen and Chees-zu potatoes. I just got back from having some at the inn, Miyasan, and, admitedly they really are quite good.

I was ready to sleep as soon as I arrived Wednesday evening in Koya, but that was not to be. Our friends, the middle aged ladies, were having a dinner for Dan, so of I went. Hiroko brought her daughter who had just spent a year studying English in Iowa, and Noriko brought her
own Pharmacology studying daughter who was back for the Holiday. They were both fantastic! Dan and I were in stitches most of the evening and they were slagging me off the rest of the time for being slow.

I hadn't slept...

Dan thought someone was trying to set him up. Well, that's Dan. I thought they were great, but given that I teach their Moms and friendships not leading to marriage are something of a rarity between the sexes here, I didn't suggest hanging out at the weekend...

Finally, the Beach Party and the BBQ. A chance to meet all the newbies from the other group. Except they were unfriendly and obnoxious.
They reminded me of the Jets in the Kobe Hotel for the re-contracting conference.
We approached, said hello, and they turned their backs to us. Something similar here.

My group were still brilliant though. They've been hanging out together, opening up their houses to everyone else, and have formed a really solid support group in just a few weeks. I was really impressed. I met them after their orientation last Friday in Wakayama city and got to see just how well everyone was getting on.

There were 10 of us crashing on one of the girl's floor that night, and then the Aussie, Joe, in the closet. He eventually came out of the closet the next morning...
And freaked me out.

I knew his parents were Irish, but I didn't know he was actually born in Dublin. Not only that, but the bastard lived in Kew Park in lucan and was in the same school as me. His younger brother was in my class for a year!

And yes, he still remembers...

A muinteoir, An bhfuil cead agam dul go dti on leithreas, le do thoil?*

Johno, one of the new Kiwis found out about a rock gig with one of his favourite bands, so Joe and I tagged along on Saturday night. They were great, and the support act was hilarious. Lovely little Japanese guys trying to scream and be scary and tough.
Ah Bless.
I showed them the sites of Osaka and we argued over who the English speaking sales rep in the Electronics shop was hitting on. She gave us all business cards, without personal numbers, so I say none, but I'm sure one of them will find out when they go back to get that camera.

So I have a good group now also really interested in spending as many weekends as possible snowboarding.
They even have cars! Woo!

Before I left, David and I were talking about how, as we live in rural areas without people near our age, much of this coming year depended on what the new people were like. I've probably described the last group before. David is less polite in his terms. Anyway, we agreed that they couldn't possibly be as bad as the previous group, and I'm very happy to know it's true.

Next stop now is Mount Fuji. The lovely Erin, who lives 2 hours from Tokyo and has put me up every time I'm there, has asked me to join her in a climb. If I didn't mention her, she's the one who would have plans for, and vice versa, if she didn't live a whole days travel away.
I'm really looking forward to putting my boots to some good use. And now that I have a tripod for my camera, experimenting with a sunrise.

Now I'm going to go down through all those e-mails I have yet to open, and reply to them. Except that one about a breakthrough in medicine.

You can never trust a subject with 5 exclamation marks.

Unless it's from Claire Lyons.

amities

david

"I can see for miles"

*(Teacher, Do I have permission to go to the toilet, please?)

Remember now the rule of three.

Part 3.

In my best ST:NG computer voice, "And now the conclusion"

Got in at 11, and then up at 5 the next morning.

A Working Holiday to Tokyo. Essentially that's what the end of the week was for me. After a mixture of Cable cars, local, and Shinkansen Bullet Trains, I arrived in Tokyo along with Katherine for the Orientation of the Orientation. We would be helping out with the
babysitting of homesick culture shocked new JETs at the beginning of August, and had our own get together to prepare for the event on Monday and Tuesday.

This left me with Tuesday afternoon and Monday morning to get to know a city I had seen before only from a Hotel window and aeroport shuttle bus.

(Back when I first arrived, I was too busy on the phone to London, arranging for them to post over the money belt I had left behind, to enjoy the free evenings.)

Limited time, so I visited the one Shrine I could remember from photos, Asakusa, on the Wednesday and another, the Meiji Shrine, I discovered by accident while looking for a place to sit after finding runners in my size (I know, shock!) on the Tuesday. In between, there plenty of wandering and a lovely mattress to sleep on courtesy of Erin.


http://www.bebo.com/PhotoAlbum.jsp?PhotoAlbumId=1187737534


And just as I was about to get my train back to Osaka, a beautiful discovery:

The World Press Photo 2006 exhibit.


http://www.worldpressphoto.nl/

Beautifully humbling.

And absolutely worth not getting back, yet again, until 11.

Hannasake Primary School was the next day. Owww*.

So a weekend of rest was a damn nice change.

And if those links don't work, you can find them, as usual, at
davidmorrison2.bebo.com and in the Photos section.

Now I think it's time to go home,

amities

david

P.S. If I said I would send you photos, and haven't yet, remind me.
Clarence, did I send you that photograph from the cafe in Osaka?
Carlton, did I send you the ones of you in the Corcaigh jersy from that Friday Himmeji after the Kobe conference?
Everyone: Hey, what's the story? How you getting on?
Francsico, I'm not going home this time via Paris, so you are spared the sound of me destrying your language for a while. And Karima's address no longer works.

Como é você?

*I'm their soccer coach. See "Chocolate covered ....." for details...