How they live in To-ki-yo

The 20th of July was my last proper day of work, giving me nearly two weeks before I headed off of Malaysia. What to do? Time to see those sites in Tokyo I kept missing. Before that was Shirahama for Pete's final House Party before heading home to NY. Three years of living in a massive house near Shirahama Beach had made it the ideal location, and now that chapter was coming to a close.

The next day I headed to the beach again to go underwater. It had been almost a year since I had dived, and I needed to get back in the water to refresh my memory before starting any advanced courses. Nothing much to see, bad conditions, but I felt a lot more confident about the coming trip.

Onward to Tokyo for some sightseeing with Erin. And to pick up a supply of crazy Malaria pills for the next few months: The Head of the International Clinic was a brilliant octogenarian Russian who entertained me tales of patients gone by, mostly musicians passing through the Hotels, and thought more of his photo of himself and Michael Jackson than he did of the one with Jacques Chirac.

The Tsukiji fish market is massive, serves the Tokyo area, and is best seen in all is chaotic glory just after the sun rise. We chanced our arm on New Years Day, and of course it was closed, so this time we sleep in he cheapest option in Tokyo (A very comfortable "love hotel"{charges by the hour}) and made our bleary-eyed way there.

It wasn't as crazy as I had hoped, but by Japanese standards, it made a good attempt.

I enjoyed wandering through it, seeing the different stages my Maguro goes through before entering my belly.

Then on to the justifiably controversial Yasukini War Shrine.

I'd heard so many terrible tales of how the Shrine blatantly lies about atrocities committed by he Japanese forces in China and elsewhere, I felt I needed to see it for myself before I could really believe it. I was angry. But not near as angry as a Korean may feel. I told the Vice-principal in my main school of my plans the week before. His reply was "Most Japanese don't like that place." Fortunately that seems true. Unfortunately, the Government and Department of Education don't fall into that category.

More from the fish market and Shrine here.

Typhoon Falls

One of the last events before I leave Japan, and a left over from last years to do list; the Nachi Fire festival took place last weekend..... Despite the Typhoon!

12 50kg torches were carried up and down the steps from the Nachi waterfall, as Sake was spat into the flames to make them rage. I got down as close as I could and had to retreat from the heat as they went by. You see more of it here. It happened to be the last long weekend we had before people began to head home, so Saturday night involved taking advantage of the fact the Kate and Lily's apartment building is completely empty but for them. Beaching and onsening on Sunday, follow by a far more subdued party that night involving Teams "The Game of Life" (There were three on our team, so of course we had to be the polygamist family) and chocolate cake. Then swimming at a beautiful, but Typhoon gorged waterfall the next day.

Operatic Seisiún

Yesterday, Takeshi and Veronique told me of a Japanese Opera singer who would be jamming with them today after work. I arrived a little late, and could hear a note held aloft for longer than I thought possible, as I approached.

Not 4m away from a flawless soprano, the power of her voice felt like a blast wave about to throw me out onto the street; striking the head and ear drums like beautiful cascading brick walls.

The others accompanied her with Indian string instruments, falling swimming goggles, Werthers Originals dancing around inside a spinning hat, a two year old speaking Fra-panese, and an An-pan-man guitar.

Eastern Extremes

A catalogue of disturbing political trends in our partners to the East. The day power was due to pass to the second Dail, some TDs were secretly armed. Reading the article reminded me of our own Civil War spun lack of Politcal centre. Different times yes, with shirts of every colour, so I hope and trust that it will not take as long as it took us.

Booked

Just two months left now. My employer has to provide me with a one-way ticket home. They are going to to that, and then I am going to cash it in with their knowledge. They are not concerend, so long as they can point to a flight number in their records and say that they fulfilled their contractual obligations.

My real flight is booked, and that's for Malaysia. And yes, the American lady will be accompanying me there. She'll then be returningto Japan for another year of work at the end of August while I start travelling home slowly. Actually, she was staying with me for a week, all last week. There's loads of hiking and other things to do around here so there was plenty to do if she ever got bored while I was working. And I learned how to play Scrabble.

278 points the first time playing. Apparently that makes me an expert. I won't say what she got except that, clearly, so is she...

Okay, here goes

The photos for when I was working with the NGO can be found here

http://picasaweb.google.com/DavidlMorrison/India

and the ones from the little bit of traveling around I did can be found here

http://picasaweb.google.com/DavidlMorrison/Delhi

I'm really happy I went, and it's one of those things that made staying in Japan for a second year worth while. I know that sounds odd, but if I had not been in Japan, I don't know ifI would have ever gone to India and done something like it.

The people we were working with were so appreciative and happy, it was very humbling. We were working in a village of Untouchables, or Dalits, but specifically working with the 10 poorest widows in the village, who, being widows, were the most at risk of exploitation, and who are ostracised the most by traditional Hindu society and the caste system. What was startling was how much they varied in age, with one being younger than some of the people in our group, including myself: Accidents killing more than old age where we were.

The most obvious thing that we were doing was helping to construct small houses for the 10 women and their familes. But that had started before our arrival and continued afterwards as well. The main point was that we were seen to be there, working with the ostracised and maybe changing some people's minds. Actually, the founder of the NGO, a local Indian man named Ravi, made it clear to us that that was the main point. The NGO group we wereworking with is called Building Communities, and he chose the title very deliberately.

Another aspect was that our presence, as had happened in the past and with us as well, would act as a catalyst, forcing the local provincial government to act. The problems are not with the law per se. The problems include that the people are not aware of their rights, the opportunities available to them, and the responsibilities that the local governemnt has to them: something we were also there to inform them about. When a bunch of foreigners showed up and started working, there was suddenly a lot more movementon local issues. Also, the fact that India was having a heat wave, that Indians in Delhi were getting heat stroke, that it was 45 degrees at midday where we were, and that we were still working up until the afternoon, hopefully had an effect on the attitudes that people had towards the women with whom we were working.

I, and I think everyone else in the group, was very happy with the work we did, and felt that our presence had made some difference. We're still in contact with Ravi, who has a Ph.d. in Human Rights and works mainly to in that field , and get updates about how things are progressing. There's a report with everything in even more detail I can send you if you like.

I got sick on two occasions, both times being the plumbing. The first time I was fine. I stayed back for the day and went out the next morning. The second time was when I was traveling afterward. It was much more severe than before and I doubted that I would be on my feet and running around for a few days, so I admitted myself into hospital. A few hours later, I was back on my feet and travelling, with some help from anti-biotics, IV drips, and other drugs. Not fun, but I only missed half a day really. That actualy happened after seeing the Taj Mahal, so I only missed the other sites in that city, Agra.

Then it was on to Jaipur, and on the train back up to Delhi. The train was a good experience itself as I got talking to a lot of people, or more accurately, they got talking to me. I'd heard about Indian trains and meeting people before, so I had to take at least one.

Then it was back to Japan, and some sleep.

And heated Toilet seats

India


I have so much to tell about India. In fact, I have too much to tell, and no idea where to begin.


I know you want to see photos now though, so Click here for the first part of the trip, when I was working with Building Communities.


And then click here for the photos from travelling around the "Golden Triangle" for a few days afterward. I've put comments on most of the photos, so I think it might make more sense to go to the albums and read those.

Drift, Drift, Drift!

I've started singing a new song from Teriyaki Boyz' Buddhist cousins.

"I wonder if they know,
how they live in Ki-Yo-To,
if you've seen it then you mean it, then you know you have to go.

SLOW AND ZEN LIKE!

Sweep, Sweep, Sweep!"

Coming soon to Music Station (Japanese pop music TV show).

6 Months?

Passport is back, with a surprise: the visa is valid until the end of October, with multiple entries. Such a thing to waste...

Reith Lectures

"Places riven with division internally, between rich and poor, are places that are also subject to distrust and find it hard to cooperate abroad. Whereas places where there is more equity internally tend to be more cooperative and peaceful internationally. What happens internally in our societies is reflected internationally." Jeffrey Sachs (Paraphrased from BBC Radio 4's Start the Week programme)

I love having my eyes opened by much smarter people, and am looking forward to listening to the Reith lectures, which he is giving this year. For more information on this suprisingly short and digestible series, have a look here. I searched for, and subscribed to it via the iTunes shop, which I will be using until someone of you tells me of another sevice.

Lucas

Is a fecking drinks magent.
That is the lesson from Kobe. It doesn't matter where he goes. Random Japanese people wind up buying him drinks, and more importantly, all of the friends he has around him. Ours is not to reason why.

Morrisons in Japan

The second week of the school Holidays were even better than the first. I never thought I would get the opportunity because of the distance, but my parents managed to get a 5 day stop over in Kansai, on the way home from a boxing tournament in Australia that my Dad brought a team to.

Hanging out with them was wonderful! I had forgotten how at ase I could feel. Wonderful! I got to show them around my town, and even have them stay in a Temple. Oh, and coming from Oz, they were not impressed with the snow that greeted them.

"Don't look at he camera!"

Brought them by bullet train to Hiroshima and then to the holy island of Miyajima to hunt down some Monkeys. Then on to Kyoto so my Mom could some more of her own Huinting: geisha. It took a while, and then Success!

As usual, you can see more pictures here

Wasabi, our saviour

Last night, Taheshi, Veronique and I ate some not very fresh smelling Sashimi (Raw Fish) for dinner, along with the Green Wasabi that I love so much. This morning, I woke up, not dead. I am now convinced that as well as being a fantastic substance for clearing out the sinuses (Try it! It will blow your feckin' head off!) Wasabi also grants the diner super-human powers of Buddhist Bullet Bending, as well as protection from anything nasty that may lurk in ones meal.

Why I re-contracted

It's an exageration, but only just. There were a couple of events and places in Japan that I missed in my first year, and I was determined not to let that happen again! This was one of them.

In all it's glory, The Kawasaki Penis Festival.

A little tired after getting back from Okinawa just the day before, but a bloody good day out.

In the morning, the giant Pink Penis is carried around the neighbourhood before being brought back to the Shrine where music and dancing rule the grounds as everyone eats and drinks under cherry blossoms in full bloom. I sounds fun and beautiful, and it was.

I've been told that some of the pictures might not be considered 'worksafe' a first glance, so Click here for more photos

As always, there's a good story behind the fesival. A young Japanee woman was invaded by a Demon who had the habit of biting off he genitals of her husbands on their wedding nights. No one was very happy with this situation, least of all the prospective bride and future and former husbands, so the town decided that firm action must be taken.

Enter the blacksmith. We can all see where this is going so I'll skip to the end. The demon broke it's teeth, fled the woman, and they all lived happily ever after.

Except for her former husbands that is...

They went on to form Japanese Teen sensation SMAP

Since then? The shrine became an area where ladies of the night would pray for protection from STIs. More recently, those ladies have been replacd by Tokyos LGB scene and couples praying for ferility, making the Festival a fun day out for all the family, with a fine touch of PRIDE.

Island Hopping

The Japanese academic year is a bit different from our own. Schools and Universities finish up the end of the third week of March, and start back the second week of April. It's only two weeks, so you can imagine the envy when I tell them about our 2 or three months off.

I used the Holiday last year to travel further afield, down the length of Japan stopping off with friends along the way. This year Erin and I went a bit further, to the souhern most islands of Okinawa, within spitting distance of Taiwan: Ishigaki, Takejima, an Iriomote

We noticed he vibe as soon as we arrivd. It was sill Japan, but different. A relaxed Japan. The islands had been independent before, with its own Ryuukyuu kingdom, and you could definitely sense that.

I was most impressed with the best use of a beer bottle I have ever seen. Peanuts. I' brilliant!

We flew into Ishigaki island, but stayed there just for the first night to get our bearings. Then it was on to Takejima, a beatiful island of only 300 souls, where we stayed for one night, getting to see the place once all the tourists had left on the last boat. As it was so small, we rented bikes rather than using the local bus sevice... Very effctive at crossing between islands at low tide I hear...

Then Iriomote, the wilderness of Japan, for two nights. Great hostel, and snorkelling that was even better than some dives I've done. Beautiful, with an incredible breath of colours and life, just a few metres from the sand. The colours don't really show up in he photos, so you're just going to have to trust me.

The next day, we took a kayak 8km up river, and hiked to the falls.

It was a beautiful, incredibly relaxing week.

Click here for more photos.

Quote of the day

I don't know what she was really trying to communicate

S: You street children.

D: Doshi.

S: ?

D: You need a verb. A "Doshi".

S: Ah. You are street children.

D: Okay. But that's plural.

S: ?

D: Futari desu..em..One Child. Two Children.

S: Ah. You are a street children.

D: Once more.

S: You are a street child.

D: Excellent! Good work!

S: Thanks you!

D: Just one thing, "Street Children" Wakarimaska?

S: ?

D: Calcutta wakarimaska?

S: Bye!

Quote of the Day

Me: "Mayana-chan, Viens ici onegaishimasu"

Destroying both the French and Japanese languages. Luckily the two-year-old is being brought up in both.

Like a Robot from 1984

Teaching at Fuki Primary School. Yes, I do consider this teaching...

The young teacher that I've been working with for the past few months will be transfering to another school with the start of the new School year (April), so she wanted a a photo of me with each group in the class. Here is one of them.

Cry Baby From the front page of today's newspaper. Asashoryu, the cuurent Sumo Champion, has upset the crowd. The Number 1 is not supposed to loose, and yet he has lost two matches in as many days. Some throw their cushions in disgust, while others taunt and laugh.

Ah Sumo, where else can you watch big men get ritualistically ridiculed by their fans.

It's raining (on) naked men!

Hallelujah!

Yes, saturday 17th February. It's bitterly cold. It's Okayama. That can only meanone thing: get very drunk and run around town naked (almost) with 5000 drunken japanese Salary men (office workers). Oh Joy! No, seriously, joy.

Getting there last year was an adventure in on itself, and Carlton's and my participation ended up being by chance. This year, there was some organisation. Aftr much cajolling, with most of the Jets in Wakayama going skiing that same weekend, I convinced three other lads and one lass to make the journey. Susanne drove and got very wet, while we ran around in a bunch in front of her, and got very hot. It was my camera most of the time, so I'm not in any of them. There are more here, where maybe I'm in the background

Last year, my only photo from the bevent was the one on the front cover of the next day's newspaper with me in the centre. There was no topping that this year, but still a hell of lot of fun! I let theb lads know that any attempt to actuaklkly get the agic stick itself would only lead to them getting betan by the 5000 others trying to grab it.

Only one person died this year, and thankfully no injuries on our parts.

I'm in there somewhere, on the left, well away form those danmed deadly stairs.