Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Thursday: The Monorail is the best way to see the city at night.
Friday: I'm watching a Magic show in a Chinese Temple.
New Tang Dynasty TV interviewed me about the Mooncake Festival and lantern and Dragon parade. I'm big in the PRC
"NTDTV, Jong Ju Chie Qwy Law* from Kuala Lumpur!"
*Happy mooncake Festival!
I'm crap at Mandarin tones.
In the market I feel so wanted and popular. Everyone wants to be my friend...
Saturday Night: "You have beautiful Blue eyes".
And you have a beautiful Adam's Apple.
Should have guessed from the name "Thai Bar".
Sunday: I don't need a laptop, I don't I don't!
I already have a laptop, I do I do!
Couchsurfing is great. If I hadn't met met Tj, Celine, Frank and Shah, Kuala Lumpur would not be nearly as good.
Must NOT buy any ridiculously cheap VERY shiny electronics!
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Monday 17th to Thursday 20th September 2007
They take the "Cat City" thing pretty seriously in Kuching. All of the roundabouts have statues of Giant Cats, that look like they are about to jump out and try to take over the city. And a lot of people don't even think that's how it's supposed to be translated!
Apart from the cats, there were two main attractions to keep me busy while I waited to fly to Kuala Lumpur. One was the largest flower in the world.
it's supposed to smell like a decomposing corpse to attract flies...
The other was an Orang Utang Rehabilitation centre
I'd been to the larger one in Sabah with Erin, but was happy to go to and support this one with my entrance fee.
There wouldn't have been that much else to see there, but I happened to arrive at the beginning of the Chinese Moon Cake Festival.
Good stuff lads! Thanks for timing it so well.
More photos can be found here
Monday, September 17, 2007
Brunei really is quite boring, but watching the Bourne Ultimatum with my host, and drinking fabulous red wine, made it worth while. Oh yeah, and the hitchhiking
"This is my Mom, she doesn't speak any English."
"Oh okay."
"Do you have a girlfriend in Brunei?"
"Em, no, I don't..."
"I could be your girlfriend in Brunei"
Eye opening.
For some more photos, click here.
Wednesday, September 12, 2007
2nd to the 12th September 2007
I met Nancy at the airport with a young French couple and Dutch girl. I’d forgotten that she had said she’d be on the flight when I met her a few days before. The others hadn’t really organised accommodation, so we all decided to stay at her place. We got on the tiny plane, and Sebastien immediately started to sweat. He doesn’t like small planes, and the sight of Nancy opening a Bible for some light reading just as the turbulence was at its worst did not help!
I was enjoying the view, when it happened. I had my camera ready, had the view in sight, and then nothing.
The top of the camera just flashed Err99.
It had been working perfectly that morning, and now, as soon as I had left the tiny city of Miri, with it’s malls, and camera shops, it stopped working. Actually, not only had it stopped working, but I had just received the Canon version of the "Blue Screen of Death".
I spent a day trying to figure it out, swopping parts back and forth with the Dutch girl who had just bought a smaller Canon. It was the lens. Using the one payphone (A satellite phone it turns out) I called the Canon agents, and realised I had to wait until I got to Kuala Lumpur or Singapore before I could get it checked out. I got it to work on some of the fully manual settings, but the aperture is now locked in place at the highest degree, so enough light is only reaching the sensor on the brightest of days. Even then, sometimes it just doesn't work.
Luckily I had a two year old disposable camera with me as a back up. Apart from that mini personal disaster, Bario was great. The four of us went by the “road” during the day to another village, stayed at a homestay, where the Diesel generator seemed to be switched on more for the personal karaoke machine that the lights. A load of people from the other houses came around after dinner. Not to see us though, but to watch Pirates of the Carribbean 3.
Sebastien didn’t feel comfortable with English, which was great practice for me! We had an English-free zone for a few days with French and some very feeble attempts to speak the local Kelabit language.
The way back to Bario was through the jungle proper with the son of our host as our guide. Leeches suck. And there were lots of them. And cursing in French at the blood sucking bastards is entirely more satisfying. The French couple and Dutch girl left, and I stayed close to Barrio for a while, trying to sort out the camera, wandering around the area, and hiding from the rain in a shed with the migrant rice pickers from Indonesia
You probably can't make it out, but that's the border marker there between Petrus and I.
I wasn't going to do it. I was cursing my decision not to bring my boots (The ones I "borrowed from Dad 5 years ago") but there was only one way to find out if it would be possible with runners, and within an hour of setting out it didn't matter anymore.
I met Petrus at Nancy's house, when we got back form the other village. It was his house we had stayed in, and he had recently just brought a group of English Gap year kids to Kalimantan, the Indonesian state on Borneo, so I asked him if he'd like to go again. We had just left his village when we reached the first stream, and the water came up to my knees. I looked down at my shoes, at the water above where the top of my boots would have been, and sighed.
We met two teachers from Brunei, and Englishman named Charles and a local named Rhokia, and got them to join us when their own plans were washed out by the rain, camped out in the jungle one night, and spent another above a shop in Kalimantan. Then back across the border,
and on to Ba Kelalan, where I thought I would be heading back to Miri right away.
Instead, I got to talking with some people on a confidence building mission with the International Tropical Timber Organisation. When they saw how interested I was, they invited me to join them back in Bario, and when we arrived, everyone thought I was a member of the NGO. There was a reception, Pineapples, flowers, dancing, music, the works!
I seem to have shown some knowledge in Micro-hydro power, so now I have to see how feasible 14 generators would be for the outlying villages. It's all part of their confidence building measures. The logging company is promising a road to this isolated community. That would greatly reduce the price of everything that is now currently flown in. The community is split 50 50 on whether to allow the logging. A couple of generators might tip it the right way.
For loads more photos, Click here.
Saturday, September 01, 2007
I'm in Miri for now waiting for one of the semi-regular flights in tiny twin otter planes, that frequently get cancelled due to the weather: Apparently it rains quite often, and heavily, in the rainforest. Or so they claim...
After Erin left Kota Kinabalu, it became clear that if I wanted to get to Bario any time soon, I would have to go from Miri in Sarawak. The flights from Kota Kinabalu are even less reliable. So onward to Miri, just on the other side of Brunei from KK. Malaysia was celebrating it’s 50th year of Independence (One Brit commented “It doesn’t count if we gave it back without a fight”) and Miri was to be the focal point of celebrations in the State of Sarawak, so I didn’t mind so much that I would have to stay there for a few days waiting for my flight.
I was very curious about what the party would be like. In Sabah, there was a suspiciously large number of flags everywhere. It seemed that they were the result of a government campaign, rather than an outpouring of nationalistic fervour. This seemed more plausible after conversations with the locals, all of whom were unhappy with the way the government operated, and many of whom felt there was nothing to celebrate: being a part of Malaysia was not what the people in Sabah I spoke with considered “independence”. Culturally, they felt very distant from their Muslim King.
In Miri then by contrast, I first noticed the relative lack of flags. But the boys going around town on their scooters, horns blaring out tunes, made me hopeful for some kind of party atmosphere. So as the clock counted down the hours to midnight, I joined the crowds gathering at the town's open air amphitheatre where a stage was set up.
I was very surprised. Everyone seemed to be waiting around, very bored, as different acts took to the stage. I heard the MC starting to chant “Merdeka!” (Independence!) at the top of his lungs, but the response he hoped for never came. The first four rows cried back, and no one else. Maybe everyone else was just trying to act cool.
Then the Prime Minister arrived, apparently. I was told by a local that he was walking beside me, but I couldn’t figure out which of the men in colourful shirts he was supposed to be. A security was, well, they let ME walk beside him. Come on guys! I lived in japan. Clearly I'm a Ninja!
Everyone else from the Hostel decided to call it a night, but I stayed out until the fireworks at midnight, which turned out to be a damp squid. Back to the Hostel I went, a little deflated, and feeling very sorry for the MC.
I think I've finally got this thing up to date. Good thing too, considering that I'm heading to Bario tomorrow. I've booked a one way ticket, adn the date of my return, and thus more updates, depends on the weather. If you're reading this, and think it a bit sparse, I've put comments on most of the photographs here so going through those will probably be more interesting than reading these posts.
And that goes for the older posts such as the Naked man festival and India.
Mom and Dad, You can get to those by clicking "older posts" link at the very bottom of this page. Start at the bottom then and make your way up. Then click back at the top left of the screen. If that doesn't work, click on these links for the main posts.
India1
India2
Naked Man
Fish Market
Nachi Fire festival
or click on this link to see the albums
http://picasaweb.google.com/DavidlMorrison/
Monday, August 27, 2007
Keeping a respectful distance, made a wide arc around them, and watched as they dragged themselves back to the more comfortable seas.Sunday, August 19, 2007
The other sites had more life than I hgad seen before, even in Thaialnd, but it was at Sipidan that I was blown away by the sheer density of aquatic life.
Saturday, August 11, 2007
"No, I'm sorry, I'm not. Are you Malaysia's next top model?"
"Emmmm... Yes, I am!"
And so the interrogation from the teenage girls continued.
That was Saturday night and and we were staying with a family in a small village of Orang Sungei, "People of the River", who of course, as well as boats, also had dodgy satellite dishes. Electricity was for two hours a day though in certain buildings. Our main guides were some local kids with ridiculously good English who put on a show for us that night.
We arrived at that village from further up the Kinabatangan river, after spending 4 wonderful days at Uncle Tans jungle camp. Resort it is not, but I found the presence of a mat on a raised wooden surface, a mosquito net, and something resembling a Chinese prison cell as accommodation, to be far more luxurious that what I had prepared myself for. And the cacophony at night to be very soothing.
That place is wonderful. The local lads who work as guides all have some mild levels of insanity, with an infectious enthusiasm. They organise treks through the jungle at night and during the day, and rides of dinky boats up and down the river in the morning, afternoon, and after dark, where all the cool kids in the wildlife world hang out. Erin and I were lucky every time we went out and the amount of wildlife we saw was almost overwhelming.
Important information I learned in the Malaysian Rain forest:
The most expensive coffee beans in the world are those that are first eaten by the nocturnal, and very rare, Civet cat, shat out, and THEN collected by the Coffee bean.....farmers...
Adult Male Orang-Utangs look very happy when they are peeing from trees onto unsuspecting trekkers and have ENORMOUS bladders. Mountains of Guano smell like... spores... Best not to breathe too deeply.
Tarantulas eat their young if they can't get a bird.
Long tailed Macaques are loveable BASTARDS who will one day figure out how to take a photo with the digital cameras they steal before they smash them on the ground. Some also have an unfortunate coke habit
Irish people are everywhere: I met two people from DCU who knew Ailbhe, Ross, Bernard, etc. etc. Bloody hell.
Oh, and I had great fun surprising Casey. We'd talked about our travel plans before leaving Japan, and realising how similar they were assumed that we'd just bump into each other in Laos or somewhere along the line. There she was walking towards me through the forest, and as she passed,
"Hi Casey"
"OH MY GOD!"
Yeah, I wonder who else is arsing around this corner of the world.
Click here to see the rest of the pictures, mine and Erin's.
On more serious note. The trip down the river was also a great eye opener into the destruction caused by Palm Oil. It was horrible. From any elevated position on Borneo, for as far as the eye can see, Palm Oil plantations have replaced the rainforest. I spent a lot of my time with the locals asking them about their thoughts on the plantations. The opinions were universal. Corporations are granted concessions to transform Virgin rainforest into plantations. Local people do not benefit economically from the plantations, and in fact their livelihoods suffer as fish stocks are depleted as general river health worsens, and much valued revenue from Eco-tourism fades. And the effect it has on other wildlife is even worse. Orang Utangs WILL be extinct in the wild within two decades at most because of the use of Palm Oil products to wash hands, instead of soup. The Rhino will be extinct in even less time as all attempts to breed them in captivity have failed. The list goes on and on, and is even worse in Indonesian Borneo. Google Earth it.
Palm Oil is not a sustainable biofuel, and will not help in cutting CO2 emmissions. Promoting the vast destruction of rainforest, and with it destruction of habitat, will only decrease biodiversity, increase CO2 levels over all, and destroy possibilities for sustainable economic growth in these developing countries. Like many other things, deciding whether to promote this or not begins at the Supermarket.
Monday, August 06, 2007
Friday, August 03, 2007
Wednesday, August 01, 2007
It's getting late, and I'm going through a going through a very special old box in my apartment: a box of letters. I spent some time sitting on my couch re-reading them, some sent almost 2 years ago. I'm glad I did. I wasn't sure what I should keep, but I know I must keep them all.
At the impersonal level, if someone should ever care to write something about me, they would be an invaluable source. Far more informative than any e-mail, many of them have that feeling of intimacy that only a pen scratching into paper can reveal.
At the personal level, they are gateways to memories of old emotions. Emotions felt again, fleetingly, as I'm transported back to their time. I don't forget what happened after, or how those emotions changed, but that does not stop me from enjoying them for that moment. And so, I shall keep them all, adding to their box as the years pass, and reading them again when I'm feeling forgetful.
Saturday, July 28, 2007
Monday, July 16, 2007
12 50kg torches were carried up and down the steps from the Nachi waterfall, as Sake was spat into the flames to make them rage. I got down as close as I could and had to retreat from the heat as they went by. You see more of it here. It happened to be the last long weekend we had before people began to head home, so Saturday night involved taking advantage of the fact the Kate and Lily's apartment building is completely empty but for them. Beaching and onsening on Sunday, follow by a far more subdued party that night involving Teams "The Game of Life" (There were three on our team, so of course we had to be the polygamist family) and chocolate cake. Then swimming at a beautiful, but Typhoon gorged waterfall the next day.
Saturday, June 09, 2007
Not 4m away from a flawless soprano, the power of her voice felt like a blast wave about to throw me out onto the street; striking the head and ear drums like beautiful cascading brick walls.
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
A catalogue of disturbing political trends in our partners to the East. The day power was due to pass to the second Dail, some TDs were secretly armed. Reading the article reminded me of our own Civil War spun lack of Politcal centre. Different times yes, with shirts of every colour, so I hope and trust that it will not take as long as it took us.
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Just two months left now. My employer has to provide me with a one-way ticket home. They are going to to that, and then I am going to cash it in with their knowledge. They are not concerend, so long as they can point to a flight number in their records and say that they fulfilled their contractual obligations.
My real flight is booked, and that's for Malaysia. And yes, the American lady will be accompanying me there. She'll then be returningto Japan for another year of work at the end of August while I start travelling home slowly. Actually, she was staying with me for a week, all last week. There's loads of hiking and other things to do around here so there was plenty to do if she ever got bored while I was working. And I learned how to play Scrabble.
278 points the first time playing. Apparently that makes me an expert. I won't say what she got except that, clearly, so is she...
Monday, May 14, 2007
The photos for when I was working with the NGO can be found here
http://picasaweb.google.com/DavidlMorrison/India
and the ones from the little bit of traveling around I did can be found here
http://picasaweb.google.com/DavidlMorrison/Delhi
I'm really happy I went, and it's one of those things that made staying in Japan for a second year worth while. I know that sounds odd, but if I had not been in Japan, I don't know ifI would have ever gone to India and done something like it.
The people we were working with were so appreciative and happy, it was very humbling. We were working in a village of Untouchables, or Dalits, but specifically working with the 10 poorest widows in the village, who, being widows, were the most at risk of exploitation, and who are ostracised the most by traditional Hindu society and the caste system. What was startling was how much they varied in age, with one being younger than some of the people in our group, including myself: Accidents killing more than old age where we were.
The most obvious thing that we were doing was helping to construct small houses for the 10 women and their familes. But that had started before our arrival and continued afterwards as well. The main point was that we were seen to be there, working with the ostracised and maybe changing some people's minds. Actually, the founder of the NGO, a local Indian man named Ravi, made it clear to us that that was the main point. The NGO group we wereworking with is called Building Communities, and he chose the title very deliberately.
Another aspect was that our presence, as had happened in the past and with us as well, would act as a catalyst, forcing the local provincial government to act. The problems are not with the law per se. The problems include that the people are not aware of their rights, the opportunities available to them, and the responsibilities that the local governemnt has to them: something we were also there to inform them about. When a bunch of foreigners showed up and started working, there was suddenly a lot more movementon local issues. Also, the fact that India was having a heat wave, that Indians in Delhi were getting heat stroke, that it was 45 degrees at midday where we were, and that we were still working up until the afternoon, hopefully had an effect on the attitudes that people had towards the women with whom we were working.
I, and I think everyone else in the group, was very happy with the work we did, and felt that our presence had made some difference. We're still in contact with Ravi, who has a Ph.d. in Human Rights and works mainly to in that field , and get updates about how things are progressing. There's a report with everything in even more detail I can send you if you like.
I got sick on two occasions, both times being the plumbing. The first time I was fine. I stayed back for the day and went out the next morning. The second time was when I was traveling afterward. It was much more severe than before and I doubted that I would be on my feet and running around for a few days, so I admitted myself into hospital. A few hours later, I was back on my feet and travelling, with some help from anti-biotics, IV drips, and other drugs. Not fun, but I only missed half a day really. That actualy happened after seeing the Taj Mahal, so I only missed the other sites in that city, Agra.
Then it was on to Jaipur, and on the train back up to Delhi. The train was a good experience itself as I got talking to a lot of people, or more accurately, they got talking to me. I'd heard about Indian trains and meeting people before, so I had to take at least one.
Then it was back to Japan, and some sleep.
And heated Toilet seats
Sunday, May 13, 2007
I have so much to tell about India. In fact, I have too much to tell, and no idea where to begin.
I know you want to see photos now though, so Click here for the first part of the trip, when I was working with Building Communities.
And then click here for the photos from travelling around the "Golden Triangle" for a few days afterward. I've put comments on most of the photos, so I think it might make more sense to go to the albums and read those.
Friday, April 20, 2007
I've started singing a new song from Teriyaki Boyz' Buddhist cousins.
"I wonder if they know,
how they live in Ki-Yo-To,
if you've seen it then you mean it, then you know you have to go.
SLOW AND ZEN LIKE!
Sweep, Sweep, Sweep!"
Coming soon to Music Station (Japanese pop music TV show).